Guide to the Central Portuguese Way

Martina Cottafava
Sep 15, 2021
5 min read

The Portuguese Way connects Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela (600km). I only covered part of the central Portuguese route, from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, covering 250km in 10 days.

How the Camino de Santiago works: The Camino de Santiago is one of the most important pilgrimage routes in history which has as its destination the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, in the region of Galicia, Spain.

The shell and the yellow arrow are the symbols of the Camino de Santiago.

Officially the pilgrimage is considered such if it is done by foot, by bike or on horseback. The Compostela is obtained after walking the last 100km.

What is the Compostela? It is the official certificate that certifies having covered the last 100km by foot / horse or the last 200km by bicycle to Santiago. How can I request it? It can only be obtained if stamps are collected on the pilgrim's credential. Stamps are obtained in churches, hostels, monasteries, bars, cathedrals etc. The Credential must be stamped at least twice a day for the last 100km. What is the pilgrim's credential? The Credential is the pilgrim's diary where you can put the stamps at each stage and record the journey to obtain the Compostela. It is an accordion-shaped booklet divided into squares where stamps can be affixed. The Credential is also essential to access the pilgrims' albergues that offer discounted prices for sleeping.

Where is the credential requested? In the parishes of the cities and towns along the way. I took it at the Sè Cathedral in Porto. It is also possible to request it in Italy before departure. Where is Compostela required? At the Pilgrim Reception Office in Santiago de Compostela in Rùa das Carretas 33.

What I brought: - Forclaz 40L backpack - with backpack cover included (https://www.decathlon.it/p/zaino-viaggio-donna-travel500-50l-azzurro/_/R-p-167471?mc=8383138&c=TURCHESE_BLU)

- Salomon trekking shoes (https://www.decathlon.it/p/scarpe-montagna-donna-salomon-x-ultra-3-gtx/_/R-p-X8589005?mc=8589005)

- Sandals (https://www.zalando.it/birkenstock-arizona-scarpe-comode-marrone-bi112d00q-702.html)

- Flip flops - Two microfiber towel

- Two anti-blister socks (https://www.decathlon.it/p/calze-adulto-mh-500-mid-nere-2-paia/_/R-p-130048?mc=8357785&c=GRIGIO) and one without seams

- Two thermal shirts in short sleeves - A tank top - A thermal sweatshirt - Kway in case of rain or bad weather - Beauty (solid soap, toothbrush, toothpaste, sunscreen, shampoo, conditioner, wipes, tissues and sanitizing gel) - Blister plasters - Medicine kit, needle and thread

-Skin protection cream (https://www.prep.it/dermoprotettiva)

- Hat and sunglasses - Sleeping bag less than 1 kg (https://www.decathlon.it/p/saccolenzuolo-seta-trek-bianco/_/R-p-323651?mc=8578334&c=BIANCO)

- Underwear (three underwear and two sports tops) - A costume - Three stretch pants (one long, one short and one knee length) - 1 L bottle - Travel diary - Mp3 - Ebook - Portable battery charger - Polaroid - Map of the central Portuguese way (I then bought a fleece because it was really cold in the morning)

Tips for making the backpack: - The backpack, when full, should weigh less than 8-10kg (depending on the size) to avoid overloading the shoulders when walking. Mine weighed 7.7kg and I had everything I needed with me (clothes can be washed in hostels, there is no need to fill the backpack with unnecessary clothing) - Place the weights in the lower part of the backpack (eg shoes and beauty) to avoid back pain.

-Use suitcase organizers: they take up less space in your backpack and allow you to have all your items in order (https://www.amazon.it/s?k=organizer+viaggio&__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&ref=nb_sb_noss_1)

For practical reasons, I always had the thermal sweatshirt and fleece close at hand.

Where to sleep: I found the Camino Ninja app very useful to understand where to sleep according to the various stages. The app, as well as showing the route, km and altitude, shows, at each stage of the desired journey, the hotels and hostels available, as well as supermarkets and refreshment points.

Camino Ninja app logo

The albergue are the structures used for pilgrims, which can only be accessed by showing the credential with the stamps. The cost per night varies from 8 to 10 euros. Daily budget: From 20 to 30 euros per day, all included.

Where to eat: If you want to save a little something, I recommend buying food at the supermarket and then cooking in albergues or hostels. In Covid times it was not possible to use the kitchen in the albergue. Another possibility is to take advantage of the pilgrim's menu. The pilgrim's menu consists of a first course (usually soup or fish), a second course of your choice, side dish, bread, drink and coffee / dessert for the modest sum of 8/10/12 euros. To take this menu you have to prove that you are a pilgrim, always showing the credential with the stamps. The bars that offer this menu (usually done for lunch) release the stamp on the credential.

Stages:

Porto - Vairao (25 km)

Internal garden of the Mosteiro de Vairao

Vairao - Barcelos (29.3 km)

From my travel diary it emerges how tired I was in the evening and how impressed I was by the quantity of corn fields. First pains in the feet. New teammate: walking stick.

Barcelos - Ponte de Lima (32.6 km)

A very long and devastating stage on a physical and mental level. The weather hadn't helped.

Arrival at Ponte de Lima

Ponte de Lima - Rubiaes (17.8 km)

500 m of elevation gain all together. One of the most beautiful stages of the journey in terms of landscapes.

Rubiaes - Tui (20.2 km)

Tui is the first city of Galicia. In this stage we cross the border between Portugal and Spain. Note on the beautiful Albergue Quinta Estrada Romana, which is located halfway. The owners, she German and he Portuguese, met and fell in love during the journey to Santiago and decided to open this wonderful place where they offer fresh, genuine and completely home made products. What can I say, I also received the most beautiful stamp from them.

Tui

View from the Tui albergue

Galicia at 10:18pm

Tui - Redondela (31.9 km)

First real pain in the calf, which however is set aside at the sight of the stone that marks the overcoming of 100km.

Redondela - Pontevedra (21.7 km)

Quite short stage in which I realize that I am now walking 5km per hour. Note of merit for the lively town in which you arrive.

Albergue in Pontevedra

Pontevedra - Caldas de Reis (22.6 km)

Two days separate me from Santiago de Compostela and the emotion begins to be felt.

Caldas de Reis - Padron (18.8km)

Finally I can taste the much dreamed of Pulpo alla Gallega. Really good! A must try at least once in Galicia.

Pulpo alla Gallega: octopus with paprika

Pimientos

Padron - Santiago de Compostela (25 km)

It's July 12, 2021, it's 2:00 pm, it's raining but I can't hold back the tears from emotion. Santiago Cathedral is even more majestic and beautiful than I expected. I've done it! I arrived in Santiago de Compostela!

Queue for entering in the cathedral

My journey does not end here! I continued to Finisterre (what was considered the end of the world before America was discovered) to arrive at km 0.

The stages that can be seen on the map are the classic ones. I did not follow the classic route and I did not go as far as Muxia. My path can still be found on the Camino Ninja app.

Santiago de Compostela - Piaxe (30 km)

The stage is quite tough because the difference in height is a lot. This last part of the journey is entirely immersed in nature. First community dinner with new pilgrims.

Piaxe - Hospital (30,6 km)

Departure 6:30 in the morning because the forecast was extremely hot, and, in fact, it was so. In this stage I literally climbed over an indefinite number of hills, walking in the midst of streams, forests and farms: a unique spectacle. Second community dinner.

Hospital - Finisterre (28,4 km)

End of the world. Km 0.000. It is not believed, but I have really come to an end. After so much effort, seeing Km 0 on the stone is really a huge satisfaction. From the lighthouse I admired the long-dreamed sunset.